Gentlemans 1860s-1900 Drawers
by Past Patterns. #006

   Fabric Suggestions: The original drawers were made of a medium weight, high thread count, cotton muslin. Other fabrics used were calico [bleached cotton fabric heavier than muslin], linen, natural or white cotton or linen drill, wool flannel, particularly red, white and brown cotton broadcloth, China silk, Canton cotton-a napped cotton twill, worsted wool, merino wool and chamois or leather to mention a few.

   Notions: Two four-hole 3/4 inch white China, bone or ceramic buttons, and a 21 inch length of 3/8 inch wide cotton twill tape.

   This pattern is copyrighted and is for personal non-commercial use only. Dressmakers and other commercial users contact Past Patterns.

Price Waist Size Quantity Add 2 Cart Priced From: $10.00 Select Size Waist Size 28"-42" $10.00 Waist Size 44"-52" $11.00 each

Plaited Front Shirt
by Past Patterns. #007

   The suggested fabrics are: Cotton sheeting for the body and a fine linen for the collars, cuffs and plaited fronts. You may also make the entire shirt of a cotton calico and the detachable collar out of a cotton or linen.

   The two shirt styles are contained in one pattern package and are multi-sized 34 through 50 chest. Look at our National Standard size chart for your size. Chest sizes 34-40 require 3 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric; chest sizes 42-50 require 3-7/8 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.

   If making the shirts using white sheeting, order eight small, white utility China reproduction buttons for the shirt with the detachable collar and five white utility China reproduction buttons for the shirt with the set-in sleeves. If making the shirts using a calico fabric, consider purchasing matching calico buttons.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $18.00 each

1830s-1840s Small-Fall Trowsers with Frog Pockets
by Past Patterns. #008

   The fabric requirements are for a man who stands 5'6" tall. Add 2"-4" for every 1" of height above 5'6". In 45"- wide fabric, purchase: 3 Yds. for sizes 28"-42" and 3-1/8 Yds. for sizes 44"-52".

   FABRICS: The original trowsers were made of brown wool broadcloth. A second pair was made from a copy of the first in navy blue wool broadcloth. Substitute fabrics are: cotton sateen; light-weight cotton duck; linen; drill in white or blue, or woven into stripes, check, or plaid; and fine wool jean. Do not purchase worsted wool.

   NOTIONS: The original lining, pocketing, and facing fabric is a white, medium-weight cotton. Of 45"-wide lining fabric, cut 7/8 Yd. Two-ply hand-sewing silk thread and 60/2 wet-spun linen thread to match fabric. Nine 5/8" five-holed, dyed or plain bone buttons.

   TAILOR'S SUPPLIES: All notions can be purchased from: Wm. Booth, Draper, at 2115 Ramada Dr., Racine, WI 53406. Phone: (262) 886-9133, e-mail: wmboothdraper@wi.rr.com, http://www.wmboothdraper.com.

   This is a pattern package rich with information. It is divided into seven sections:

•    Historical Notes by Bill Combs - Briefly summarizes the introduction of small-fall trowsers and where they were worn after they were no longer fashionable.
•    Fabric Glossary - A small glossary of fabrics mentioned in the small-fall trower notes.
•    Pattern Drafts 1800-1838 - Illustrates trowser drafts from 1800-1838 and the differences and similarities between tailor-made and ready-made garments.
•    Construction Notes - Explains how to measure and how to wear mid-19th-century trowsers.
•    Essentials of Tailoring Outlines the minimum tools needed by a journeyman tailor or a home tailoress, how to make them, and their uses.
•    Historical Stitches Illustrates the stitches used to construct the original trousers.
•    Making Up Describes and illustrates in detail how to make a pair of reproduction trowsers similar to the originals.

   Matching Patterns: If wearing the trowsers for the first quarter of the nineteenth century, order shirt patterns from Kannik's Korner at www.http/kannikskorner.com . If wearing the trowsers for the mid nineteenth-century, consider ordering Past Patterns' #006-Men's Drawers, #007-Two Mid-Nineteenth Century Shirts, #018-Single-Breasted Vest, and #009-Double-Breasted Paletot.

   This pattern is copyrighted and is for personal, non-commercial use only. Dressmakers and other commercial users contact Past Patterns.

Price Waist Size Quantity Add 2 Cart $15.00 Select Size Waist Size 28"-42" Waist Size 44"-52" each

Double-Breasted Summer Paletot with Flap Pockets: Fashionable Circa 1847-1856
by Past Patterns. #009

   The pattern contains a brief history of the paletot from the 1840's-1870's which describes the difference between a paletot and a frock coat: hand sewing instructions, alterations and sewing instructions in 11 well-illustrated steps.

   Past Patterns' Summer Paletot makes up into a plain-cut, straight-front informal coat that is used for everyday summer wear. It is the unlined, starched, and washable variety worn with a starched shirt #007, lightly starched washable summer vest and unlined, lightly starched washable summer trousers #014 or #015. Also consider wearing drawers #006.

   Order the pattern in one of the Three Chest Sizes: Sizes 34"-38", Sizes 40"- 46", and Sizes 48"- 54".

   The Fabric Requirements are for a man who stands 5'6" tall. Add 2"-4" for every 1" of height above 5'6". Sizes 34"-38" require 4-7/8 Yds., sizes 40"-44" require 5-1/3 Yds., sizes 48"-54" require 6 Yds. of 45" wide fabric.

   Fashion Fabric Suggestions: Bottom Weight Fabrics in Cotton ˜ prints, satin weave (natural and white), seersucker (blue/white, brown/white, black/white) and 1/4" to 1" woven checks (green/white, brown/white, blue/white). Linen ˜ natural and white plain weave, natural or white drill and satin weave, 1/4" to 1" woven checks (green/white, brown/white, blue/white).

   Notions: Buttons: Twelve 3/4" to 1-1/8" self-covered, four hole China or calico, two or four hole ocean or fresh water pearl buttons. If hand sewing use 40/2 or 50/2 or 60/2 white, brown, natural or blue linen hand sewing thread; bees'-wax to wax the thread; tailor's blue chalk for marking and 1 Qt. of liquid starch.

   Matching Patterns: Wear this paletot with Past Patterns' #006 1800-1890s Men's Drawers, #007, Two Mid-Nineteenth Century Shirts, #014: Classic Plain-Cut Summer Trousers of the Mid-19th Century (Michelle, please link #006, #007, #014 and cross-link each of these with #009).

   Cotton and Wool Tapes, Linen Thread, Ribbons and Buttons: Wooded Hamlet Designs www.woodedhamlet.com

   Natural Fabric Suppliers: The Fabric Store that sells discount linen and cotton http://www.fabric.com

   Reproduction China and Calico Buttons: Chile-N-Crackers http://home.mlode.com/~jimnlindy/

   This pattern is copyrighted and is for personal non-commercial use only. Dressmakers and other commercial users contact Past Patterns.

Price Coat Size Quantity Add 2 Cart $33.00 Select Size Coat Size 34"-38" Coat Size 40"-46" Coat Size 48"-54" each

1840-1870 Summer Trowsers
by Past Patterns. #014 or #015

   For Classic Plain-Cut Summer Trousers in Big and Tall waist sizes 44 through 52 order #015.

   The pattern is a multi-sized regular in waist 28-42. In 45" wide fabric, waist sizes 28-34 require 2-3/4 Yds.; waist sizes 36-42 require 2-7/8 Yds.

   In the Construction Notes Past Patterns introduces you to 19th century measuring, let-out seams, middle-line and the location of the 19th century man's natural waistline. In the Marking and Making-Up section Past Patterns discusses tailor's supplies and thread marks. In the Hand Stitches Past Patterns illustrates the stitches used to sew the original trousers, make buttonholes and sew buttons with a neck.

   FABRIC: Cotton drill summer trouser fabrics, fFabrics are 58" to 60" wide.

   Reproduction Fine Porcelain Calicos and Utility Buttons are available from:

• Chile-N-Crackers
• PO Box 442
• Columbia, CA 95310
• Fax: (209) 588-9513

Price Waist Size Quantity Add 2 Cart Priced From: $16.00 Select Size Waist Size 28"-42" {014} $16.00 Waist Size 44"-52" {015} $19.00 each

Men's Spring-Bottom Winter Trousers with or without Foot Straps Circa 1843-1856
by Past Patterns. #016

   The Fabric Requirements are for a man who stands 5'6" tall. Add 2"-4" for every 1" of height above 5'6". In 45 inch wide fabric purchase: 2-7/8 Yds. for sizes 28"-34" and 3 Yds. for sizes 36"-52". In 60 inch wide fabric purchase 2 yds. for sizes 28"-34" and 2-7/8 Yds. for sizes 36"-52".

   Fabrics: The original trouser color is dark navy blue ground with a horizontal robin's egg blue stripe spaced 2" apart and dark sky blue vertical stripe spaced 1-1/2" and 3/4" apart. The fabric is a wool tricot. Substitute fabrics are: Bottom weight, plain woven wool or broadcloth, in solid colors or heather, even or uneven stripe, plaid or check. Twill weaves such as basket and herringbone are also appropriate. Do not purchase worsted. It does not shrink easily. See below for a half scale image of the original trouser fabric.

   Notions: The original lining and facing fabric is a heavily glazed tightly woven dark brown cotton. The pocketing is a bottom weight tightly woven medium weight white plain weave cotton. The canvas facing is a medium weight tightly woven unbleached plain weave linen. Of 45" wide fabric cut - Lining: 3/8 Yd. Pocketing: 1/2 Yd. and Linen canvas: Sizes 28-42 - 5/8 Yd., Sizes 44-52 - 7/8 Yd. The original foot straps appear to be 1/6th thick Japanned cow hide leather. Purchase a rectangle of leather that is at least 20"x 13" from which two foot straps can be cut.

   One spool of 100% linen 35/2 sewing thread. Four hole reproduction Japanned black metal buttons: six to eight 1/2" for the fly and pocket, seven 5/8" to 3/4" for the waistband and suspenders. The original wool twill tape is an olive green, purchase 1-2/3 Yds. 1/2" wide wool twill tape.

   A life size image of the Japanned metal two-piece suspender button and the wool tape.

   Tailor's Supplies-All Notions but the heavily glazed lining fabric and the Japanned leather for the foot straps can be purchased from: Wm. Booth, Draper, 2115 Ramada Dr., Racine, WI 53406. Phone: (262) 886-9133, e-mail: wmboothdraper@wi.rr.com, http://www.wmboothdraper.com . Purchase the glazed cotton and 1/2" wide wool tape from Needle and Thread, 2215 Fairfield Rd., Gettysburg, PA 17325. Phone: (717) 334-4011.

   This is a pattern package rich with information. It is divided into seven sections:

• The California Gold Rush—Briefly summarize the discovery of gold in California and how it affected the world and also briefly describes the wool trousers in newspapers, letters and catalog that were worn during the gold rush era.
• Fabric Glossary—Wool described in the newspapers, etc. for trousers.
• Foot Straps—Documents when foot straps first appeared in Europe as well as the variety used in an attempt to keep the trousers looking neat.
• Construction Notes—Explains how to measure, when the trouser crease appears, how to layout the trousers on directional fabric using the middle line, how to wear mid-19th century trousers and explains a let-out seam used by tailors.
• Essentials of Tailoring—Outlines the minimum tools needed by a journeyman tailor or a home tailoress and how to make them and their uses.
• Historical Stitches—Illustrates the stitches used to construct the original trousers.
• Making Up—Describes and illustrates in detail how to make a pair of reproduction trouser similar to the originals.

   Matching Patterns: Wear these Winter Trousers with Past Patterns' #006-Men's Drawers, #007-Two Mid-Nineteenth Century Shirts, #018-Single-Breasted Vest and #009-Double-Breasted Paletot.

   This pattern is copyrighted and is for personal non-commercial use only. Dressmakers and other commercial users contact Past Patterns.

Price Waist Size Quantity Add 2 Cart $17.00 Select Size Waist Size 28"-34" Waist Size 36"-42" Waist Size 44"-52" each

Single-Breasted Shawl Collar Summer Waistcoat for Plain or Formal Dress
Fashionable Circa 1845 to 1858
by Past Patterns. #018

   Order pattern in chest sizes: sizes 34"-38", sizes 40"- 46", and sizes 48"- 54".

   For a man who stands 5'6" tall. Add 2" of yardage for every 1" of height above 5'6".

   Fashion Fabric 45" : Sizes 34"-54"-1 Yd.

   Lining and Pocketing 45" : Sizes 34"-38"-1-1/4 Yds., Sizes 40"-46"-1-3/8 Yds., Sizes 48"-54"-1-5/8 Yds.

   Glazed Cotton Back 45" : Sizes 34"-38"-3/4 Yd., Sizes 40"-46"-7/8 Yd., Sizes 48"-54"-1 Yd.

   Fabrics for a Morning or Work Vest: Medium Weight Fabrics in Cotton - prints, satin weave (natural and white), seersucker (blue/white, brown/white, black/white), drill or satin weave, and 1/4" to 1" woven checks (green/white, brown/white, blue/white). Linen - natural and white plain weave, natural or white drill and satin weave, 1/4" to 1" woven checks (green/white, brown/white, blue/white).

   Fabrics for a:

• Half-Dress Vest: buff cashmere, marseilles, linen, nankeen or brown linen
• Full Dress Vest: white silk, satin, marseilles or fine linen.
• Ball Vest: rich white, watered and fancy silk.

   Notions: Buttons: Five 3/8", 1/2" or 5/8" four hole Japanned, bone, China, ocean or fresh water pearl and calico for morning and work vests; self covered, semi-pecious, fancy glass for half dress, full dress and ball vests. If hand sewing use 35/2 or 50/2 white, brown, natural or blue linen hand sewing thread, bees' wax to wax the thread; tailor's blue chalk for making; one quart of liquid starch to starch the cotton and linen vests; one 1" buckle of gold or silver color; 1/2 Yd. cotton quilt batting for removable vest pads.

   Tailor's Supplies:

• Wm. Booth, Draper, 2115 Ramada Dr., Racine, WI 53406. Phone: (262) 886-9133, http://www.wmboothdraper.com.
• Brown glazed cotton from Needle and Thread, 2215 Fairfield Rd., Gettysburg, PA 17325. Phone: (717) 334-4011.
• Mode International for fancy glass, ocean and fresh water pearl: www.modebeads.com Click on Beads Catalogs and then on Button Catalogs.
• Waterbury Button Company for metal buttons: www.waterburybutton.com.
• River Junction Trading Company for buckles of all types: www.riverjunction.com.

   Past Patterns' waistcoat pattern has a documented history. It is copied from a full-sized pattern sheet, printed on both sides, bearing the handwritten words "Fall & Winter 1849." Several waistcoats and overcoats, a tail coat and a frock coat are printed on the sheet. On the reverse side are printed the same items but for boys. The patterns overlap one another, and each has its own line type. The publisher of the pattern is unknown.

   The similarities between the 1849 waistcoat pattern and the 1850s and 1860s waistcoat patterns ended in 1858, when the collar and lapels become considerably narrower.

   The Historical Notes begin with James McDaniel's advertisements in Dayton, Ohio, in the 1840s, tracing the course of his business as he changed his address and added new products in order to compete successfully during the unrelenting expansion of the ready-made trade. Next is The Ladies' Work-Table Book (1843), followed by merchant tailors' newspaper advertisements from the United States during and 1850s; two sartorial publications, Scott's Report of Fashions and The Elegant; and one catalog selling ready-made clothing (1853). Fabrics in the Historical Notes that are marked with an asterisk (*) are defined in a Glossary.

   This vest completes an ensemble when worn with a starched shirt our #007, lightly starched washable summer trousers #014 or #015 and the lightly starched summer paletot #009. Also consider wearing drawers #006.

   This pattern is copyrighted March of 1993 and is for personal non-commercial use only. Dressmakers and other commercial users contact Past Patterns.

Price Chest Size Quantity Add 2 Cart $17.00 Select Size Chest Size 34"-38" Chest Size 40"-46" Chest Size 48"-54" each

1870-1901 One Piece Apron Front Overalls
by Past Patterns. #910

   In the Historical Notes included with the pattern, Past Patterns introduces you to never before published images and documentation. Past Patterns traces apron front (bib) overalls from 1838 to 1901 using art, daguerreotypes, original 19th century apron front overalls, pattern drafting manuals, mail order and wholesale catalogs and United States government documents.

   The pattern is multi-sized, waist 32-52. In 45" wide fabric, waist size 32 requires 2-7/8 Yds.; waist size 36 requires 3-1/8 Yds.; waist size 40 requires 3-1/4 Yds.; waist size 44 requires 3-1/3 Yds.; waist size 48 requires 3-3/8 Yds.; waist size 52 requires 3-1/2 Yds.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $19.00 each

1890 Men's Shirt
by Past Patterns. #3335

   This pattern was published by The Butterick Pattern Company. Originally the pattern was described as "Men's Shirt. Back yoke, two patch pockets and partial button front." Written directions. Pattern dates circa 1890.

   Suggested fabrics: Flannel, silk and Oxford cloth. The colors were white, checks, stripes, fancy prints and French prints.

   Size: 38" bust, 15, 15-1/2 or 16" neck.

   Materials required: 3-1/8 Yds. 36" wide.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $13.00 each